How to Grow Your Edges Back After Locs (Week by Week)

Quick answer: After removing locs, most women see early edge regrowth within 6 to 12 weeks if they stop tension, keep the scalp clean and moisturized, and stimulate blood flow consistently. The process is slow and non-linear, but with the right habits in place early, real progress is possible.

Why Do Locs Thin Your Edges in the First Place?

Locs themselves are not the villain. The culprit is usually tension, and it builds up quietly over years. When locs get long and heavy, the weight pulls constantly on the follicles at the hairline. Add to that any re-twisting done too tight, loc styles that put all the pull at the front, or rubber bands used to neaten the perimeter, and you have a recipe for traction alopecia.

Traction alopecia is defined by dermatologists as hair loss caused by chronic pulling on the hair follicle. The American Academy of Dermatology notes it is one of the most preventable forms of hair loss, but it does require catching it before the follicle scars over. If the area still has some peach fuzz or very fine hair visible, the follicle is likely still alive. No visible hair at all, and smooth shiny skin along the hairline, is a sign to see a board-certified dermatologist before doing anything else.

What Should You Do Immediately After Loc Removal?

The first 48 hours matter more than most people realize. Your scalp has been in a compressed, low-oxygen state. Here is what to do right away.

  • Do a clarifying wash to remove buildup from years of loc products. A clean scalp absorbs moisture and responds better to treatment.
  • Follow with a deep conditioning treatment on the length, but keep heavy conditioners off the scalp itself so you do not clog follicles.
  • Leave the hairline completely alone from any tension. No ponytails, no headbands, no tight bonnets for the first few weeks at minimum.
  • Take photos in good lighting so you have a real baseline to compare against. Progress is hard to see day to day without a reference point.

Week-by-Week Regrowth Timeline

This is a realistic guide, not a guarantee. Everyone's follicle health, age, genetics, and how long the tension was present will affect the pace.

Week What Is Happening Your Main Job
Weeks 1 to 2 Scalp is recovering from chronic tension. Inflammation may still be present. Follicles are not yet in active growth. Clarify, moisturize, zero tension. Gentle daily scalp massage with fingertips only.
Weeks 3 to 4 Blood flow to the follicle begins improving. Some women notice tiny, almost invisible baby hairs. Do not expect visible growth yet. Add a stimulating scalp oil or cream. Start a consistent twice-daily massage routine.
Weeks 5 to 8 Baby hairs may become visible. Follicles that were dormant but not dead are re-entering the anagen (growth) phase. Stay consistent with massage and moisture. Keep styling loose. Protect edges at night with a satin bonnet or pillowcase.
Weeks 9 to 12 New growth becomes more noticeable along the hairline. Texture may feel fine and fragile at first. This is normal. Be patient with fragile new growth. Avoid any styling that lays edges flat with gel and heat, which can break them before they gain length.
Months 4 to 6 Visible improvement in density for many women. Growth rate averages around half an inch per month, so edges can be a half inch to one inch long by now. Maintain your routine. This is where most people get impatient and try a new product every week. Consistency beats variety here.
Months 6 to 12 Significant regrowth for follicles that were dormant but undamaged. Women with more advanced traction alopecia may still be in early stages. Reassess. If you see zero improvement by month four, see a dermatologist. Scarring alopecia requires medical treatment, not topical products.

How Do You Stimulate Blood Flow to the Hairline?

This step is where most people either skip entirely or do wrong. Scalp massage works because it increases blood circulation to the follicle, which delivers the oxygen and nutrients the hair needs to grow. A 2016 study published in the journal Eplasty found that standardized scalp massage increased hair thickness in participants over 24 weeks. The mechanism matters: you are physically opening up blood vessels that have been under chronic compression.

How to do it right:

  1. Use the pads of your fingers, not your nails.
  2. Apply light to medium pressure in small circular motions along the hairline and temples.
  3. Do it for at least four minutes, once in the morning and once at night.
  4. Use a stimulating product to reduce friction and add benefit. The Follicle Enhancer from Edge Naturale combines peppermint, argan, jojoba, and coconut in a cream base. Peppermint oil has been studied for scalp circulation, and the cream format means it does not just sit on top but absorbs into the skin as you massage.

What Ingredients Actually Support Edge Regrowth?

Not all oils are created equal for this purpose. Here is what the research points to and what to look for on a label.

  • Peppermint oil: A 2014 study in Toxicological Research found peppermint oil promoted hair growth in mice more effectively than minoxidil in that specific model, by increasing follicle depth and dermal thickness. It is not a replacement for minoxidil if your doctor recommends it, but it is a legitimate circulation booster.
  • Jojoba oil: Structurally similar to the scalp's natural sebum. It helps balance the scalp environment without clogging follicles.
  • Argan oil: Rich in vitamin E and fatty acids. Supports the scalp's moisture barrier so the environment around the follicle stays healthy.
  • Coconut oil: Shown in research to reduce protein loss in hair. Useful for protecting fragile new growth from breakage.

What to avoid on thinning edges: heavy butters applied directly to the hairline, products with alcohol high on the ingredients list, and anything that requires tension to apply.

What Styles Are Safe While Your Edges Recover?

Your styling choices during regrowth can either protect new growth or undo your progress. The rule is simple: if it pulls, skip it.

  • Loose twists or braids with no tension at the hairline
  • Wash-and-go styles that let the hairline rest naturally
  • Wigs worn on a wig cap with no glue near the hairline and not worn every single day
  • Headscarves tied loosely at the back, never across the hairline

Avoid: cornrows that start right at the edge, tight wigs, lace front glue directly on recovering skin, and high puffs or ponytails while the hairline is still fragile.

When Should You See a Dermatologist?

Go sooner rather than later if you notice any of these signs:

  • The hairline skin looks shiny, smooth, or slightly raised (possible scarring)
  • No baby hairs at all after two to three months of consistent care
  • Redness, tenderness, or itching that does not calm down after the first week
  • Hair loss is spreading beyond just the edges

A board-certified dermatologist can tell you whether you are dealing with traction alopecia, central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA), or another condition entirely. The treatment paths are very different. Topical products alone will not fix scarring alopecia.

FAQs

Can edges really grow back after years of locs?

Many women do see regrowth, especially if the thinning happened gradually and the follicles are still alive. The key marker is whether fine hair or peach fuzz is still visible. Follicles that have scarred over from advanced traction alopecia are much harder to recover without dermatological intervention. If you are unsure, see a dermatologist before assuming products alone will handle it.

How long does it realistically take to see edges grow back?

Most women with moderate thinning start noticing baby hairs between weeks four and eight of a consistent routine. Meaningful density takes longer, usually four to six months at minimum. Hair grows roughly half an inch per month on average, so set your expectations around that rate rather than looking for miracles in a jar.

Is it okay to wear wigs while your edges recover?

Yes, with conditions. Wear a breathable wig cap, skip the lace glue entirely on a recovering hairline, and give your scalp at least one or two wig-free days per week. The biggest mistake is using wig installation as a way to cover the problem rather than treating it underneath.

Does castor oil help edges grow back?

Castor oil is popular but the scientific evidence specifically for hair regrowth is limited. It does have antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties and is safe to use. Many women find it helpful as a sealant or mixed into a lighter oil. The risk is using it too heavily, since thick application near follicles can clog pores. Use it sparingly and always in combination with scalp massage.

What is the difference between traction alopecia and CCCA?

Traction alopecia is caused by mechanical pulling and typically starts at the hairline. CCCA is a scarring condition that usually begins at the crown and spreads outward. Both are more common in Black women, and both are often misdiagnosed or dismissed. A dermatologist who specializes in hair or in skin of color is your best resource for a correct diagnosis. The American Academy of Dermatology has a find-a-dermatologist tool at aad.org.

This article is for education and is not medical advice. If you are worried about hair loss, see a board-certified dermatologist. These statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. Edge Naturale products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.